Tofu is often treated as a substitute for something else, but in Chinese cooking it has long been appreciated as an ingredient in its own right. Depending on the variety, it can be silky and almost custard-like, tender enough to wobble on the plate, or firm enough to absorb powerful sauces without falling apart.

These two recipes show that contrast beautifully. Mushroom mapo tofu combines tender cubes with an intensely savoury, chilli-rich sauce, while hot-and-sour silken tofu is softer, lighter and ready in only a few minutes. Both rely on bold seasonings and careful handling rather than complicated techniques.

Mushroom Mapo Tofu

This vegetarian version replaces traditional mince with finely chopped mushrooms, which develop a rich, concentrated flavour when fried until golden. The finished dish should be fragrant, spicy and silky, with Sichuan pepper providing its characteristic numbing warmth.

Ingredients

Prep: 10 minutes

Cook: 25 minutes

Serves 4 with rice and 2–3 other dishes

200g chestnut mushrooms, or other mushrooms

3 tbsp cooking oil

2 tsp finely chopped garlic

2 tsp finely chopped ginger

1 tsp dark soy sauce

Salt

500g tender plain white tofu

2 baby leeks, or spring onions, green parts only

3 tbsp cooking oil

2½ tbsp Sichuan chilli bean paste

1 tbsp fermented black beans, rinsed

2 tsp ground chillies

1 tbsp finely chopped garlic

1 tbsp finely chopped ginger

¼ tsp ground white pepper

1 tbsp potato starch mixed with 2½ tbsp cold water

¼–1 tsp ground roasted Sichuan pepper

Build The Mushroom Base

Trim any dry ends from the mushroom stalks, then cut the mushrooms into roughly 5mm cubes.

Heat the oil in a wok over high heat and fry the mushrooms for two to three minutes, until they shrink considerably and begin to turn golden. Add the garlic and ginger and stir briefly until aromatic, then season with the dark soy sauce and salt. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Cut the tofu into 2cm cubes and leave it in very hot, lightly salted water while preparing the remaining ingredients. Cut the baby leeks into 2cm lengths.

Make The Mapo Sauce

Heat three tablespoons of oil in a wok over medium heat. Add the chilli bean paste and stir until the oil turns red.

Add the fermented black beans and ground chillies, followed by the garlic and ginger. Stir carefully so the aromatics release their fragrance without burning.

Pour in 175ml water. Lift the tofu gently from its soaking water with a slotted spoon and add it to the wok along with the mushroom mixture and white pepper.

Bring everything to a boil, then simmer for a couple of minutes so the tofu absorbs the sauce. Add the baby leeks now; if using spring onion greens, leave them until the end.

Gradually stir in enough of the potato starch mixture to create a glossy sauce that clings to the tofu. Finish with the spring onions, if using, and scatter over roasted ground Sichuan pepper before serving.

Hot And Sour Silken Tofu

This much quicker dish celebrates tofu at its softest. Warm silken tofu is covered with a creamy sesame, vinegar and chilli dressing, then finished with preserved vegetables, spring onions and something crisp for contrast.

Ingredients

Prep: 10 minutes

Cook: 5 minutes

Serves 1–2

300g silken tofu

2 tsp Chinese sesame paste

1 tsp Chinkiang vinegar

2 tsp light soy sauce

1 tsp white sugar

1½ tbsp chilli oil, plus ½–1 tbsp chilli sediment

½ tsp red or green Sichuan pepper oil

2 tbsp finely chopped Sichuan preserved vegetables

2 tbsp finely sliced spring onions, green parts only

1 small handful Bombay mix

Keep The Tofu Delicate

Lower the silken tofu into a saucepan of boiling water and simmer gently for a few minutes until warmed through.

Carefully break it into large, soft pieces. Avoid vigorous stirring, because silken tofu is extremely delicate and can quickly collapse.

Meanwhile, smooth the sesame paste in a small bowl. Gradually stir in the Chinkiang vinegar and soy sauce until the mixture becomes silky, then add the sugar, chilli oil, chilli sediment and Sichuan pepper oil.

Lift the warm tofu carefully from the water and transfer it to a serving bowl. Spoon over the sauce, then scatter with the preserved vegetables, spring onions and Bombay mix.

The contrast is what makes this dish memorable: warm, almost custardy tofu underneath a sharp, nutty and spicy dressing, finished with fresh onion and crunchy topping.

Together, these recipes show two completely different sides of tofu. One is deep, fiery and substantial; the other is soft, tangy and almost effortless — proof that tofu needs very little help to become the centre of a memorable meal.